Where to eat and drink

In this section, we've listed a handful of restaurants and other places that you might enjoy while staying in Cagliari. Sardinian food falls broadly into two distinct camps, depending on how far from the coast you are. While Sardinia has a long tradition of hearty mountain fare, such as boar (cinghiale), pig and goat, the seafood is equally famed. Unlike the majority of mainland Italy, horsemeat (cavallo) is prized for being lean and high in iron, but is always clearly labelled as such on the menu, should you be squeamish.

Other things to look out for is the bottarga which is a very common dried fish roe often sprinkled with pasta dishes; and fiori di zucca, which are courgette flowers served in a variety of ways, including stuffed with cheese!

Anyhow, here are some places you might enjoy, along with a map and Trip Advisor link.


PIZZERIE

Sardinian pizza is more akin to the Roman style than the Napolitan; a very thin pizza base with more emphasis on traditional topping than experimental stuff (pineapple lovers should probably go elsewhere!). There's dozens of good pizzerias in Cagliari, and these are just a few of our favorites.

IL PEPE ROSA
Family-friendly place about ten minutes walk from the city centre.


L'OCA BIANCA - MARINA
The "White Goose" is located in the heart of Marina and has an excellent selection of pizza and pasta dishes.


IL FANTASMA - VILLANOVA
There are actually two Fantasma restaurants, both of which are on the same street in Piazza San Domenico. The Gorgonzola-with-Pear is recommended.

FISH & SEAFOOD


LA STELLA MARINA DI MONTECRISTO - MARINA
This old restaurant remains one of the places we go back to year after year. The menu is set in advance (depending on what was caught fresh that day) and the only choice you have is whether to take white or red wine! Pace yourself for the various courses…

DA LILLICCU - MARINA
Located on the bustling Marina thoroughfare of Via Sargegna, this trattoria is always pretty busy with locals and tourists alike.


RISTORANTE LUIGI POMATA - MARINA
Just around the corner from Stella Marina, this is a far more trendy-looking affair, and is named after the famous Sardinian chef who opened the place. Try its "Susci", as in mediterranean Sushi.


MEAT & TRADITIONAL SARDINIAN FOOD

PANI E CASU
If your choice of dining is predicated by the view, than this is probably going to be top of the list (luckily the food is excellent too)!


I PRINCIPI DI DAN
Getting a table outside can be tricky, but worth it. The starter platters of cured meats and cheeses are excellent, along with the mains of boar (cinghiale), suckling pig (porcheddu) and lamb (agnello).


MANA MANA - MARINA
Another place where the early bird catches the terrace table! Although we've put it in the meat section, Mana Mana (and everything really) does good catering for vegetarians too and had a good value lunch menu.


SA PIOLA - MARINA
Small restaurant tucked away in a staired alleyway off via Santa Margherita, a little pricey but definitely worth it considering its chef is one of the best in the island.


CHEAP & CHEERFUL

ENò
This winebar\restaurant offers authentic food at very reasonable prices. They offer also a fixed menu for lunch and dinner for only 20 euro. Great wine selection! ... Oh yes, they also speak English!

TRATTORIA GENNARGENTU
Traditional trattoria in Via Sardegna, it has a very wide menu for every taste (Pasta, meat, Seafood, vegetables). Service might be a bit slow compared to continental Italy, you just have to adjust to the island's time :-)


VEGETARIAN

LA TERRA DI MEZZO
A few minutes walk from the Piazza Yenne finds this charming little place nestled beside an unimpressive-looking Chinese restaurant. For €15, you can take as much as you want from the buffet, which is freshly replenished by the friendly staff.

COCCODI (IL DOLCE E IL SALATO)
Walking up to Castello on the main drag of Largo Carlo Felice, you'll pass this modern and very busy café. Be prepared to wait for a table at lunchtime.


BARS, CAFES & APERITIVOS

In Cagliari, every bar sells coffee and beers, so don't be shy, whether it's coffee or a drink you're looking for, just ask! While any caffé under the arches in Via Roma promenade is a good spot from where to watch the world go by,  we thought of listing here some of our favourites in the old city:

Antico Caffé - Piazza Costituzione
Opened in 1855, it's a historic place in the heart of the city. In Cagliari we still call it with its old name "Caffé Genovese", and you can probably get directions when using this name with the locals. Go for breakfast, lunch, snacks, aperitivo, dinner and after dinner... it's an all-time guarantee!

Caffé Svizzero- Largo Carlo Felice
Very elegant and well located very close to the seafront, this is another piece of Cagliari's history.

Caffé Pasticceria Tramer - Piazza Martiri
"The best croissants in town are in Tramer!" (Tramer fa i cornetti più buoni di Cagliari!). I grew up with this refrain in my head, as in this very old bar you can savour one of the best pastries in Cagliari. Croissants and merengues are a must! So why not going there for breakfast? Note: After the war my granny's hens supplied fresh eggs to this pastry shop, delivered by hand by her little sister.

Caffé Barcellona - Marina
You can order at the bar or wait for the waiter if you're sitting outside in Via Barcellona. An old school bar, from the time when the Marina was populated only by the fishermen and old families from Cagliari, the atmosphere is as relaxed as in those days.

Il Merlo Parlante - Via Portoscalas
A low curved ceiling and wooden tables that still bear graffiti from when the place opened back in 1984. An astonishing variety of artisan beers from Sardinia and around the world are on offer, along with a mouth-watering array of sandwiches served late into the night.

The 3 following bars are all in Castello, within walking distance from each other (in case you want to try a pub crawl) and with amazing views... all of them!

Libarium
For an aperitivo before dinner this place is a must! Try their Aperol Spritz accompanied by tasty finger food such as olives, sausages, pizzette, crostini etc. Good after-dinner cocktails selection too!

Caffé degli Spiriti
Perfect for an after dinner digestive or a cocktail, there is a DJ playing on the terrace every night of the week.

Caffé De Candia
Located on the same terrace as Caffé degli Spiriti, it offers the same formula. It's nice to float from one bar to the other during the evening/night :-)